So, I just posted the design for the garden on the Pugsley Garden from this spring. Yesterday and today, I have been working on an update of the design, to incorporate a whale of a lot of spring bulbs and other fall plantings I just ordered to fill holes and help to fix problem areas.
First, here is the updated design. It doesn't show many of the annuals, as those won't get placed until next spring. It focuses on the perennials that are not moving, and the new things I intend to plant this fall.
Below the images of the garden design are the notes I wrote myself about what I'm trying to do ...
Basic plan is to move next year's Tomatoes to another place (where?), because my Heirlooms are showing some signs of wilt, and so it is better to rotate them. Also, the Tomatoes, Dahlias and Cleomes are FAR TOO scrunched in with not enough room, light or air, so most of the Dahlias will have to go elsewhere, too. So, put in Tulips and spring bulbs there, where the Tomatoes are, and overplant with Dahlias and (fewer) Cleomes, with Marigolds to come up along the fringe and maybe Basil somewhere in there?
Then, move the rest of the Dahlias down where the Basil is now, and underplant all of that area behind the long row of Daylilies with Tulips and Daffodils. And fill in the bare spots where the Basil is now with a few more Coneflowers.
My biggest hole is behind the Peonies, where the Lilies are spread too far apart and there is a lot of bare dirt that just is a standing invitation to weeds.
Idea -- Behind Peonies -- one pink Salvia and a slew of mixed bearded Iris around the curve of the rock garden to fill in that curve. The Iris will bloom early, at the same time as the Peonies and then be a nice, pointy blue-grey foliage counterpoint to Lilies and they will spread very slowly, so put behind Peonies, and the white Siberian Iris will look like tall grass after blooming, so put behind Salvia.
More pink Hyacinth among the Peonies.
Some orange and red Tulips where Tomatoes are now, along the front of Campwoods Road where they'll be very visible to passers by, with the pale yellow Narcissis and a few white Daffodils. And between the Daffodils and Peonies, put the Fritillaria persica, which will look great showing off their spikes of dark, dark black maroon in front of the white Daffodils.
Put the remaining orange and all pink Tulips in clumps behind and above the long row of Daylilies, in clumps, not a row, and then white Daffodils and peach Narcissis in clumps between the Daylilies, to naturalize.
Also put the other three purple Salvia between Daylilies, but on the Pugsley street side, as they can bear the salt.
Finally, put the tiny Katharine Hodgkin Irises in the rock garden.
And the Eryngium (Sea Holly) between the Daylilies too, on the street side. They're highly salt tolerant.
And finally, finally, red Allium and the hair Allium all in among the Coneflowers and Russian Sage, because all of that will be pretty bare in the spring.
Finally, finally, finally, tuck in fall crocus where there will be August bare spots and same with the Lycoris squamigera. Added thought on that: Lycoris back of the Russian Sage, where the foliage can come up in the spring, then be covered by the Russian Sage as it dies back, and then when the Lycoris blooms come up naked in the fall, they can come up through the Russian Sage and bloom pink above the Sage.
Note: The white Siberian Iris want moist soil all summer? Put wherever I'm going to water consistently (that's near the Dahlias). But also note their foliage will stay green and upright (these are tall and huge flowers) and so put where I want foliage. And note further that it is said they will form a dense clump that weeds -- or Lilies -- cannot break through. So can't put in the middle of the Lilies.
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